South Korean fashion company Layer Co. has secured export deals worth a total 580 billion won ($409.5 million) for French brand Marithé François Girbaud (Marithé).

The company announced Thursday that it has signed deals with distributors in Asia, covering exports worth 580 billion won over the next five years.

Founded in France in 1972, Marithé gained popularity in Korea in the late 1990s, particularly for its denim products.

However, the brand’s appeal waned in the 2000s amid fierce competition. Layer acquired the Korean license in 2019, and rebranded the label to target younger women.

Its tailored designs and targeted marketing quickly resonated with local consumers, reviving the brand‘s fortunes.

Layer’s strategy has paid off, with Marithé‘s sales soaring from 300 million won in 2019 to an estimated 150 billion won this year, a 500-fold increase in just five years.

Among the three fashion labels popular with Korea’s younger generation - Marithé, Matin Kim, and Mardi Mercredi - Marithé leads in sales.

Driven by growing interest from foreign tourists visiting its flagship stores in Seoul‘s Myeong-dong and Hannam districts, where 95 percent of sales come from international shoppers, Layer decided to push for global expansion. The company secured exclusive distribution rights for Marithé in Japan, China and other Asian markets in March 2024, while receiving 20 billion won in orders for its Spring/Summer 2024 collection following its first global order event for Asian distributors in July of that year.

Key partnerships were formed with Itochu Corp. in Japan, Fila Holdings Corp.’s local subsidiary in China, and Thailand’s Jaspal Group.

The model of a Korean firm acquiring foreign brand licenses, localizing them, and exporting them back is not unique to Marithé.

Other brands, such as Kolon FnC’s Geoffrey, Highlight Brands’ Malbon Golf, and Samsung C&T Corp.’s AMI, have followed similar paths, gaining greater popularity in Korea than their home countries and renewing interest abroad.

Layer plans to accelerate Marithé’s global expansion, starting with the pre-opening of its first Asian store in Causeway Bay, Hong Kong last month. A new store in Taipei, Taiwan is slated to open later this month.

Marithé aims to open 17 stores across Asia in 2025. The brand will debut flagship stores in Tokyo’s Omotesando and Shibuya districts, along with additional department store outlets in Japan during the first half of 2025.

In China, Marithé plans to enter Tmall in early 2025, followed by pop-up stores in cities like Shanghai and a flagship opening later that year. Hong Kong and Macau will see stores in key commercial districts, while Thailand will focus on major malls and department stores.

Marithé manages 85 stores in Korea as of 2024, up from 23 stores in 2022. Layer aims for a 2025 sales target of about 230 billion won, including 10 billion won from its kids’ line.

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